Thursday, December 8, 2011

Welkom in Amsterdam

Date Traveled: December 4, 2011



I left Glasgow on Saturday morning (the 3rd) and shortly landed at the KLM/Delta European hub, the Schipol Airport near Amsterdam. My flight schedule had me on a 24-hour layover in Amsterdam (my choice) and I fully intended to enjoy some time in the city. Before I left for Glasgow, I booked a bed at a hostel on the outside of the city center, but right next to the museum campus. I was hoping to find something closer to the city center, but many hostels won't let you book a single bed over a weekend for just one night; instead, you have to book a minimum of 2-3 nights. Getting to the hostel wasn't bad, though. Once I got through customs, it was pretty easy for me to find a ticket agent and buy a round-trip train ticket, though the woman behind the counter gave me a look of disdain when I started speaking in English.


The train system was familiar since I spent so much time in Berlin earlier this year, and no more than twenty minutes later, I arrived at the main train station in downtown Amsterdam. It's a beautiful building, architecturally, though much of it was covered in scaffolding and being refurbished. I bought a street map of the city from the Tourist Information center just across the street from Centraal Station. Though it was early in the afternoon, the sky was getting a little cloudy and started to rain a little bit, but it didn't bother me as I started wandering through the streets of Amsterdam.


I didn't take too much time to get lost in the city because I wanted to get to my hostel and check in, making sure I had a bed for that night. A number of trams and buses run throughout the city and there is a subway system set up, though it doesn't really get you many places in the city, but I decided to walk. Afterall, it didn't look far, and I was short on change. I did find out before I went about the I Amsterdam card, which give you total access to any public transportation system as well as access to dozens of museums around the city. I thought about purchasing this card, but even for the 1-day offer, it was going to be more expensive than walking and buying my entrance to the one museum I had time for.

Amsterdam is one of those fantastically cool, walkable, friendly, cheery, beautiful cities. It is of course famous for its extensive series of canals, which were recently added to the UNESCO list of culturally significant sites. One of the other things that immediately stands out as being unique among European cities is the architecture of the houses, the majority of which can't be more than 15-feet wide. Though skinny, each building is deep and rises 4-5 stories above street-level, and is crowned by a little ornamental façade. Naturally, this design made it difficult to move large pieces of furniture up and down stairs, so many of the houses have a pulley system in place near the roof line so that you could hoist large items up and through windows. And of course there are the canals - beautifully lined with trees along the sidewalk and boats in the water. I've never been to Venice, and while I imagine it is more austere, Amsterdam's canals just seemed inviting and quaint.
Tree-lined canal in Amsterdam
I got to my hostel, the Hotel Annemarie, and had a little problem checking in because I thought I paid for everything online at www.hostelworld.com, but it turns out they only take the deposit and you have to pay the rest upon arrival - but the hostel may or may not take credit cards. Such was the case and I had to run around the corner to find an geldautomat (ATM) and get some money. Wasn't too big of a deal, but I also had to put to a refundable deposit for my key, which was just slightly annoying. But the host at the hostel was a very cheery man with a more than friendly disposition and every time I saw him he asked me by name, "Eric, how is your stay? Eric, how are the rooms? Eric, is there anything I can do for you?" And to be fair to the 75% rating on hostelworld.com, Hotel Annemarie was very nice - definitely not a party hostel.

I went up to my bed - one of eight in the room - and took advantage of the free wifi and tried calling home with my computer. But it turns out that voice calling from the Gmail chat window has been modified and it is no longer free to call the US internationally... So I checked my email, made my bed, and then put my things in my backpack and headed out to check out a museum while they were still open. Most close at 6pm on a daily basis, so I didn't have much time. Luckily, Hotel Annemarie is adjacent to the museum campus where the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum are located.

My first instinct was to go to the Van Gogh Museum and get my fill of the renowned artist, but I ran into another snafu because I didn't have much cash and the minimum to use a card was 25-euro... Luckily, the Rijksmuseum is just down the street and I was easily able to get in. The Rijksmuseum is a clearinghouse for all things Dutch. It covers aspects of Dutch history, culture, and art and has many fascinating displays. The museum has been undergoing a series of renovations so the majority of the museum is inaccessible; instead, they've had to condense their art and artifacts down to the most popular.

I had to go through fairly quickly, but was able to learn that the Netherlands gained its independence from Spain in the 1500s and refers to various autonomous regions within the political confines of what we recognize today. Holland, though synonymous with the Netherlands, is really just one of those autonomous regions. Anyway, the Netherlands quickly became a powerhouse of sea-trading and exploration, colonizing parts of North America (New Amsterdam became New York City), South America (Suriname), Africa (parts of South Africa), and southeast Asia (Indonesia). Somewhere along the way, the Netherlands transitioned into being governed by a monarchy...I missed that transition, though - or maybe that display was in the closed-off portion of the museum?

The tour then brought me through a few rooms complete with jewelery, gems, and other fancy accoutrements of the rich and famous and a room full of delftware, a type of blue and white ceramic in which pictures of Dutch life, designs, flowers, and landscapes are depicted.

But the main attraction at the Rijksmuseum is the vast artwork collection with pieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals, and Steen. I am not an art historian and don't really understand the intricacies of the various media or techniques used, but I can appreciate the talent that goes into portraying the Dutch landscapes, the symbolism represented in various party scenes, the detail in portraits, and the sheer magnitude of the museum's most famous piece, Rembrandt's "The Night Watch" - a huge 12-by-14 foot mural of guardsmen from Amsterdam's upper-crust. It's a beautifully detailed painting that is somehow still around today after being trimmed down on three sides when it was moved to a secondary location that wasn't as big as its original and then more recently being ripped apart in places after a deranged man slashed through the painting in many places with a knife.
Rembrandt's The Night Watch in the Rijksmuseum (photo: Rijksmuseum.nl)
I left the museum right around closing time at 6pm, and didn't really feel like walking all the way back into town for a night out by myself, so I grabbed some food from a nearby grocery store and went back to my hostel to eat. Back in my room, three girls from Spain were getting ready for their night out on the town, but the other beds were empty. This was good news because it meant that our room was maybe not going to be too crowded. Sure, I might have to deal with them coming back late that night, but I could put up with that. I finished reading my book and checked emails until my battery ran out, but by that time, a giggly and talkative group of French students (and one Swede) came into the room speaking the whole time in French. I tried to just ignore them, but one of the guys and I chatted for a little bit. They were confused why I was staying at a hostel in Amsterdam but wasn't going out for the night. I tried explaining that I was on business (of sorts) and just here during a layover. I don't think they understood. They continued to get ready while I, running out of things to do, pretended to study a map of the city.

They eventually left, apologizing in advance for when they came back later that night, and I tried to get as much sleep as possible because I knew that later on, when everyone returned, I'd be woken up again. Well, the Spanish girls did not return, which I thought was weird, but it was good because there weren't enough beds for me, the three of them, and the five french students, and when the students returned they were loud, but not obnoxiously and I prepared for the light by putting my airplane eye-shades on. Wasn't too bad.

I wanted to wear ear plugs, too, but I wouldn't have heard my alarms go off on my iPhone, which I had tucked into the hood of my jacket hanging off the post of my bunk bed. I ended up waking up before my alarm went off and decided to be nice to my roommates and turned my alarms off before hopping in the shower so they wouldn't be woken up either. I took my shower and started packing my bag in the dark so I wouldn't bother them by turning on a light, and nearly had everything together when I went to put my iPhone in my pocket...but it wasn't there in my jacket's hood where I left it. I felt through all the pockets in my jacket to see if I just misplaced it. But I was positive it had been in my hood because that's where I put it when I turned my alarms off so my roommates wouldn't be woken by it. It just wasn't there. I thought maybe I left it in the pockets in my shorts, so I emptied my backpack and checked everywhere. Couldn't be found. I checked my jacket again, and then shook my sheets, and then my backpack again. Jacket. Backpack. Jacket. Backpack. It was nowhere to be found. I started getting really psyched out that someone, again, had stolen my iPhone, exactly like what happened when I was on my way to the Berlin airport earlier this year.

I started to freak out and I turned on one of the lights, which woke up one of the French girls, so I muttered, "Désolé. J'ai perdu mon mobile." She asked me to let the cat out of the room because it was bothering her. When did a cat come into the room? So I let it out and continued my search. Maybe it fell into the sheets of one of the two beds below? I couldn't quite justify rummaging my hands through the beds where a girl in one and a guy in the other were sleeping, so I flattened myself on the floor and rechecked under the beds. There, with the light on, I could see a little box-like thing near the wall under the bed. It was my phone! I grabbed it just to make sure, let out a big sigh of relief, and stuffed everything back into my backpack and headed downstairs for a meager breakfast of toast and jam.

It wasn't that late and I was going to make my flight, no worries, but I quickly left the hostel and started my way back to Centraal Station. But what good is a stay in Amsterdam without a visit to the Red Light District? The district is famous for its provocative nightlife and adult entertainment, but is also home to museums, art galleries, family houses, churches, cafés, and shops. Of course, being Sunday morning, nothing was open, but it made my visit even cooler because it was like walking through a ghost town...or at least like walking down Bourbon Street in New Orleans the morning after during Mardi Gras!
The famous I amsterdam statue outside the Rijksmuseum. They were filling the fountain in front of it with water for an ice rink, so I couldn't get a head-on shot. Seems like 8am on a Sunday is the only time when it's not covered in tourists!
Old mansions lining the outermost of the concentric canals, separating the main downtown area and the museum district.
The National Monument commemorating WWII
The Oude Kerk, the oldest Gothic monument in Amsterdam, dates back to the 1200s, though it has undergone many enlargements since. It is an island of sanctity in the heart of the Red Light district :)
Typical façades lining the canal in the Red Light District
Amsterdam's Centraal Station. BEAUTIFUL train station.
Amsterdam was such a beautiful city, I am sorry I only had such a little amount of time to spend there, but it is definitely worth going back to with friends or family - someone else to enjoy it with me and experience all it has to offer.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Glasgow and the Necropolis

Dates Traveled: November 28 - December 3, 2011
Part 2 of 3

The next few days were uneventful in the sense that I did not really do a whole lot. I did meet with students from Uni Glasgow and chatted about student life at the University as well as with colleagues to discuss the project I'd potentially be working on. I thought about trying to get downtown on the 30th, but public workers were all on strike, so trains were shut down and buses were limited, so I decided to stay near the West End of Glasgow, near campus. I grabbed a sandwich for lunch from a grocery store and wandered into the Botanical Gardens nearby. Though the main building was closed due to the strike, a secondary greenhouse (or glass house) was open and I found a bench and just relaxed for a bit.
Inside one of the glass houses at the Glasgow Botanical Gardens
 
 
 
 
 
That afternoon, I met with a bunch of current students who really gave me a feel for what living in Glasgow and working at the University was like. They were great and answered a lot of questions I had. And then later in the evening, I got more of a tour of the department by two students who then also took me out for a brew and more chatting at a local eat-and-drinkery in an old theater that has since been converted into a very spacious restaurant and bar. Very cool little alley off the main road called Ashton Lane with lots of little restaurants, bars, and a movie theater - clearly a local hang-out for anyone in the West End.
Ashton Lane at night
It was back to the hotel for me after that and I worked on my presentation for a little bit before nodding off to sleep. The next day (Thursday) was more open for me, schedule-wise, and since the strike was over, I decided to make my way downtown. The weather cleared up, so it was sunny, albeit chilly. I walked to the downtown area from campus. It's kind of hard to get a feel for a city with such little time, but Glasgow definitely seemed to be a lively city. I didn't really see a whole lot, but I at least walked through the main shopping area, past the city hall and plaza, and then up and over to the Glasgow Cathedral, which is a site! The Cathedral is formerly a Catholic church and is one of the few churches to have survived the Protestant Reformation. When reformers came to the church, wanting to tear it down because of what it stood for, the citizens of Glasgow protested and successfully saved the grand structure. Across from the Cathedral is the Glasgow Necropolis - one of the most unique cemeteries I've ever seen. In Glasgow's heyday, this was the burial place for the wealthy entrepreneurs and merchants and other Glaswegians in high-standing. The Necropolis is famous for its Victorian architecture in the numerous and marvelous tombs, crypts, and mausoleums. Originally planned as a park and garden that would "improve the morals and tastes of Glaswegians" (according to an information placard), the Necropolis still exhibits its original grandeur.
Kelvingrove Museum
University of Glasgow Main Building up on the hill
Clever speed sign. Couldn't find any for other speeds, so I don't know if they also rhyme
Glasgow city hall
George Square, the plaza in front of the city hall, is getting all prepped for Christmas festivities
Glasgow Cathedral
In the Necropolis, this is the grave of the author of the nursery rhyme, Wee Willie Winky!
View of Glasgow and the Cathedral from the Necropolis
Grave markers up on the Necropolis
Mausoleums on the Necropolis
More of the Necropolis
Main window of the Cathedral
Glasgow Cathedral from the front
The sun began setting and I needed to get back to the hotel so I could finish working on my presentation, so I hopped on the Glasgow Underground to get back to the West End. Down in the tunnel, waiting for the train, I was expecting to see an industrially boxy train come rolling into the station or maybe even a newer, sleeker train slide up next to the platform. But when the train did come through, the first words that came to my mind were, "Oh, that's cute."
Refurbished in the late 1970s, the Glasgow Underground hasn't changed much. Very small cars that you really have to duck to get into. It's a fun little ride that gets you from Point A to Point B.
Friday was my last day in Glasgow, and it was full of meetings, tours, interviews, and my presentation, which went really well, considering I haven't really presented my research since I was in Australia earlier this year! Saturday morning came early and I took the Underground back into town and hopped a bus to get out to the airport to return home. It was a short trip to Glasgow, but it was so positive that I'm really looking forward to potentially being able to spend more time there in the future! So much to do and see and I really didn't have the time to do it all. I'll be coming back for sure someday - and it may be sooner rather than later, but that decision has yet to be made.

Before actually getting home to Michigan, my flight dropped me off back in Amsterdam where I had a 24-hour layover and will write more about that tomorrow!

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Welcome to the Land of Bagpipes

Dates Traveled: November 28 - December 3, 2011
Part 1 of 3

Any recent graduate knows that this is not a fun time to be on the job-hunt. After applying and applying all summer and fall, moving to Chicago for a few weeks, and going to conferences to network, I finally experienced a little bit of forward motion in my otherwise stagnant life. After I went to the Geological Society of America's annual conference in Minneapolis in October, my former advisor from Vermont emailed me to inform me of a very unique opportunity to get my Ph.D. Dylan, one of our colleagues who went with us to Greenland, mentioned a project he was going to be a co-supervisor on when he completed his move to a job at a lab facility near Glasgow, in Scotland. Working with colleagues at the University of Glasgow, they were all looking for Ph.D candidates to work on a project, jointly funded by Macquarie University in Sydney, Australia - where I gave a talk earlier this year while on my Australian adventures.

Anyway, after much consideration, I decided to apply to the Ph.D position and opened lines off communication to those involved. And with luck (and a good application package), I was invited to Glasgow to learn more about the project, meet my potential supervisors, tour the University, the town, and other facilities, give a presentation on my research, and meet students in the Geology program there. Not being one to pass up an opportunity like that, I quickly agreed and shortly after Thanksgiving, was gearing to go.

Now, when I was looking for flights, the cheapest I could find were out of Chicago O'Hare, and so I planned on doing my usual hop, skip, and jump to get to the airport which involves driving to Michigan City, taking the commuter train into Millennium Station, and then taking the Blue Line all the way out to O'Hare. It's complicated and you have to get the timing just right, but with free parking at the train station in Michigan City, what better way to get in and out of the city! Well, since I packed last minute, I woke up on Monday morning and was late getting on the road because I had to pick up my power adapter from my brother's house, which took me an extra twenty minutes, and by that time I was running late for the train - like half an hour late! Speeding down the highway, trying to keep a sharp eye out for police, I barely parked my car and bought my ticket when the train pulled up. I was safe!

The flight to Amsterdam from Chicago was uneventful. I was reading a good book (Room by Emma Donoghue) and watched a few movies - like I said, it was uneventful. We landed at 6-something in the morning on Tuesday and I had a three-hour layover in Amsterdam. I got to my departure gate and once again dove into my book. All of a sudden, a Dutch accent came over the PA system saying, "Passenger, Eric Portenga, traveling to Glasgow, you are delaying the flight. Please report immediately to gate D41 or we will remove your luggage." Well, that caught me off guard (and I was slightly appalled since the Dutch person totally butchered the pronunciation of my Dutch last name) and I bolted from my current gate to D41. I apparently missed the announcement that our flight had a gate change... Once at gate D41, I quickly stripped down to get through the metal detector, chugged the water that was in my Nalgene, splattering it all over myself, gave my passport and boarding pass to the gate agent, and got on the plane. Phew! I made it!

When we landed in Glasgow, it was rainy, and cloudy, and cold, but I got through customs just fine and met with Paul, my potential advisor, who drove me into the city to my hotel where I left my luggage, and then up to the University.

The University of Glasgow is the fourth oldest university in the English-speaking world (behind the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, and St. Andrew's), founded in 1451. It has since maintained a reputation of producing high-end research in many scientific fields. In fact, the chemist and Nobel Laureate Frederick Soddy, who "discovered" the isotope, was a lecturer at the University. It was at a dinner party at a house across the street from campus where he put forth his ideas of isotopes and a woman at the party (Margaret Todd) suggested he called them isotopes - Latin for "same place." Credit has been given to Margaret Todd for her nomenclative skills, but the Nobel Prize went to Soddy for his recognition of these particles.

The campus was beautiful, though completely drenched, and after chatting with Paul in his office for a little while, I took a stroll around campus until my socks got soaked, went back to my hotel to change, before meeting with him once more in the afternoon. During the afternoon visit, the rain cleared up a bit and I heard a familiar drone which clarified that I was truly in Scotland: Bagpipes! That Tuesday and Wednesday, there would be a number of small graduation ceremonies and graduates in their gowns taking photos in the Quad, all led, of course, by that ever-haunting instrument. I loved it!! Dylan and his wife Daisy, flew in that afternoon as well for one last visit before their final move to Glasgow, and we met up for dinner that evening in the West End at a fantastic Indian restaurant (because Glasgow is known for their curries for some odd reason). After one last drink at a pub inside a refurbished church - complete with theater and club upstairs, we headed back to our hotel and I fell asleep immediately! Jetlag was not nice to me today.
The tower of the Main Building of the University of Glasgow lit up at night

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This work by Eric W. Portenga is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.